12th March 2017
Our program for today is to heads out of
Colombo, heading North to Dambulla with a few stops along the way. We were all checked out and on our way by
9.15am,
Today is Poya Day, a sacred day on the
Buddhist calendar which occurs on the full moon each month, is a public
holiday, and alcohol is not allowed to be served in public places.
Colombo is a spread out city and it takes
quite a while to clear suburbia, before we are out in the countryside. The
outer suburbs are really not much different, perhaps slightly more modern in a
few areas, but still shophouse lined roads busy with traffic and people.
Once in the rural areas we see signs of the
agriculture that supports much of the population, rice paddies, coconut
plantations ( in some cases cinnamon was planted under the coconut palms), rubber trees and various fresh fruit and cashew nut stalls along
the roadside. We stopped at one and bought some rambutans to eat along the way.
Rice paddies
Coconut plantations
We stopped to buy some rambutans
There are a number of Buddhist Shrines also,
with large Buddhas, some located high on hills overlooking townships.
Our first destination is the Pinnawala
Elephant Orphanage, established to protect Sri Lanka’s abandoned and orphaned
elephants. The orphanage now boasts a herd of around 70 elephants and has
become a major tourist attraction.
We arrived at around 12 noon and some of
the elephants were shortly expected to walk back through the town, from the
river where they had been taking their daily bath. Within 15 minutes the street
from the river to the reserve was filled with elephants , slowly returning to
their reserve.
Elephants on their way back up from the river
Once they were all back inside, we entered
the reserve, and went to an area where they were feeding to get a closer look.
In another area of the reserve a few small
elephants were in a separate yard and were quite playful.
By now it was getting warm and we were
getting hungry. Our driver suggested we walk down to the river to have lunch at
a hotel on the riverside, and we can watch another lot of elephants enjoying
their bath in the river. It was a great idea, although being Poya Day, we
couldn’t have a cold beer.
The Sri Lankans are great recyclers, making paper from elephant dung ???
Enjoying our lunch watching the elephants bathing
Having enjoyed our visit to Pinnawala, we
were back in the mini bus and on our way to Dambulla. We are climbing up in
elevation of there are more patches of thick rainforest, where land was not
cleared for coconut plantations. We also begin to see more monkeys, not all of
whom seem welcome by the roadside stall holders. We also see the odd one in
some of the small towns we pass through.
There are more Buddhas and a few Stupas.
The landscape has also changed and were are seeing a lot more mountainous
peaks, , some looking like volcanic plugs.
As we approach the lake on which our hotel
is built, the daily afternoon storm strikes with very heavy rain. The roads
have degenerated to narrow dirt roads and progress has slowed.
In light rain we arrived at the Heritance
Hotel Kandalama, our home for the next 3 nights. It was designed by one of Sri
Lankas’ famous architects, Geoffrey Bawa, and it sits high on a ridge along the
edge of the Kandalama Reservoir. It is designed to blend in with the
environment and is very nice.
Because it is surrounded by natural
vegetation and rocky outcrops, we are told not to leave our windows or balcony
doors open or unlocked when we go out, otherwise we can expect to have monkeys
visit.
The hotel has 2 restaurants and we thought
we would try out the buffet one tonight. It doesn’t open until 7.30pm, so we
have a drink from the mini bar with Sharon and John, as apparently this is
allowed on Poya Day.
The storm has come back with vengeance with
very heavy rain and lots of lightning. We have a long walk along covered
outside corridors to get to the restaurant, but manage to get there without
getting wet. Once seated, we are surprised that the waiter thrusts a wine list
in our hands. I asked if they were allowed to serve wine on Poya day, and it
seems the restaurant got a special dispensation.
The buffet was excellent with a wide range
of well prepared local and Western dishes. It really is the best way to try the incredible range of Sri Lankan dishes.

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